Cabot Trail Cliff Views to Beach Hues

Moose on Cabot Trail

Cabot Trail or bust was the plan today. We could not continue to wait for the weather to turn sky blue. Under a sheet of cloud cover we left from Baddeck, Nova Scotia on Cape Breton Island early in the morning to embark on the 320 kilometre world famous Cabot Trail. The sightseeing tour is a popular loop route for driving, cycling and motorcycling enthusiasts seeking adventure exploring the northern tip of Cape Breton Island.

The sightseeing route visits small villages clinging to cliffs, coastlines pelted by crashing waves, sandy beaches, high mountain roads leaning over coves and bays, wilderness trails, picnic parks and look off points (sightseeing viewing sites). The highlight of the Cabot Trail is the Cape Breton Highlands National Park – home to coyotes and moose.

Local insider information and being nosey led us to believe that the best way to explore the sightseeing route was to travel in a counter clockwise direction. Two reasons – one – is that you are always driving on the right hand side of the road therefore you can easily access the pull outs, parks, trails and look offs without crossing traffic lanes and two – there is far less traffic as most travel the route clockwise.

Views from Cape Smokey Look Off

From Baddeck, Nova Scotia the Cabot Trail twisted and turned, bumped and bobbled along leading us to Ingonish Beach, Ingonish Centre and Ingonish. Just prior to the Ingonish trio is a look off picnic park and hiking trail named Cape Smokey. From the high bluffs the Atlantic Ocean stretched forever, as far as the eyes could see, until the ocean merged with the horizon becoming one. Below the high bluff the coastline revealed rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, the white froth of crashing waves and the distorted turns of the Cabot Trail. For the more adventurous there is a 11 kilometre loop trail which provides more views of the ocean and the surrounding highlands.

Taking in the Views from Ignonish Beach

The entrance gates and park buildings to the Cape Breton Highlands National Park is located in Ingonish Beach. To access the park requires an admission fee. Once pass the gates we were introduced to the first group of hiking trails – the Freshwater Lake, Middle Head, Clyburn Valley and Franey Trails. We decided to explore the 2 kilometre long Freshwater Lake Trail which begins and follows the shoreline of a long boulder and sandy beach. On this day the waves were crashing the shore, swells pounding the surf drowning out any communication between Bro and I. The 2 metre swells provided plenty of entertainment, some waves chasing us up onto the boulder spit safely away from the incoming white water surges.

Mary Ann Falls

Continuing along the Cabot Trail we were consistently spoiled with ocean views. We decided to detour from the Cabot Trail momentarily following a long gravel road exploring some of the backcountry wilderness regions before connecting to Mary Ann Falls. The parking lot was empty and nature was waiting. A short trail led us to a small picnic park located on the banks of a river and a series of boardwalk stairs leading us down to the base of the falls. Here we took some quality time to admire the falls, take some pictures for our upcoming NovaScotiaEH.ca website and to explore along the rivers edge hopping boulders like a quick game of hop-scotch.

Back on the Cabot Trail we continued along the route stopping for some views at the Green Cove Look off. A short trail leads to the top of a rocky outcropping. Below the cliffs the waves spit white water up into the air – mist engulfing the air. Out in the distance we watched a whale watching boat. Many, including us, had binoculars out looking for some of the whales breaching but with no luck. Down the road we stopped at Black Brook Beach for some white sandy beach exposure. And just up the road was Neils Harbour and a lighthouse overlooking a bay of lobster boats.

We continued on the Cabot Trail. From this point the route travels further inland climbing mountain after mountain including South Mountain, North Mountain and MacKenzie Mountain. Along the route were many hiking and look off trails including the Glascow Look off, MacIntosh Brook, Fishing Cove, Benji’s Lake, Bog and Skyline Trails. According to our information we were entering prime moose sighting country. We ventured on the short Bog Trail walking boardwalks through a wetland marsh. The marsh hike is ideal for learning about some of the local vegetation like insect eating plants. The Skyline Trail, a 9 kilometre loop trail, is said to be one of the better hikes for Moose sightings.

Cow Patrol on Cheticamp Island Lighthouse

Eventually we arrived back on the coastline. There were more look offs and pull outs providing views of rock outcroppings and sagging cliffs before pulling into the community of Cheticamp, Nova Scotia. The village is the main village on the Cabot Trail. It is mainly a french speaking community with a rich Acadian history. The blue, white and red Acadian flags were out in numbers decorating many stores, restaurants, homes and front lawns. In Cheticamp we detoured again to the tip of Cheticamp Island and visited the lighthouse on Cape Enragee. From the point there were beautiful views of the village and surrounding the lighthouse was a large herd of cows on patrol like a massive police force.

The day was drawing to a close. The night was encroaching on the day. We traveled back to our base camp with lasting memories of the Cabot Trail. The views embedded into our memory banks so to draw on for the rest of our lives.

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